Siavonga Crayfish, Fennel & Pea Risotto
Published November, 2016.
The ecosystems of Zambia's rivers are in serious peril because of the introduction of an Australian species of freshwater crayfish, by a fish farm, 15 years ago. According to our friend Bruce Danckwerts, who lives in Choma two hours north of Livingstone, the crayfish escaped from the fish farm shortly thereafter and have spread up and down the Kafue River.
I’ve read that freshwater crayfish are high-impact invaders because they alter the structure and functioning of the ecosystems they invade. And by all accounts they are hard at it here in Zambia. “They have also been found in much of the Zambezi River, from Tete to Mongu, but we’re not certain if the Zambezi population is the result of a second introduction ... quite possibly a deliberate introduction from the Kafue to Lake Kariba,” Bruce said.
Adrian Bruce-Miller, a farmer based north of Choma, has started trapping freshwater crayfish on the Kafue River. “I gather there is no problem with supply,” assured Bruce, “as his catch area is only about 300 metres of river bank near Namwala.” Funnel traps are used to catch the crayfish: long cylinders with an inward facing funnel at one end, and a hinged lid on the other that you open to remove the crayfish.
In Livingstone we have started buying the crayfish, frozen, from a local agent. And while the flavour isn't overarching, the colour and texture are such that they really elevate a dish, like the risotto recipe I developed below, into a culinary sensation. After recipe testing at the farm with my chief taster, Chris, I served this risotto at The Elephant Café for the first time yesterday. Our guests loved it. The freshwater crayfish, combined with fennel and peas from our garden, added up to a colourful, summery risotto that will become a regular feature on our menu.
Freshwater Crayfish, Fennel & Pea Risotto
Yield: 4 servings
Ingredients:
¾ cup peas, frozen or fresh, for the pea purée + ¾ cup fresh young peas for the risotto
1 teaspoon butter, softened
¼ teaspoon mint, finely chopped
500ml leek stock, salted to taste
1 tablespoon flavourless oil
3 tablespoons butter, divided 1 + 1 + 1
1 small white onion, finely chopped
3 small/2 medium fennel bulbs, finely chopped + young feathers, finely chopped, and fennel flowers saved for garnish
2 medium cloves garlic, minced and divided 1 + 1
1 cup Arborio rice
1 cup dry white wine
300 grams crayfish tails, shelled and chopped into bite-size pieces, which includes 4 small tails kept aside for garnish
1 teaspoon preserved lime, finely chopped, or to taste
1 teaspoon lime juice, or to taste
¼ cup grated parmesan cheese
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
small handful peashoots and pea flowers, for garnish
Method:
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and blanch one portion of the peas for 1-2 minutes (it will depend on the age and size of the peas). Transfer to a blender, along with the teaspoon of butter and the chopped mint. Blitz the peas until you have a thick, smooth purée, about 2-3 minutes.
Push the purée through a fine sieve, using the back of a spoon. The purée should be silky and smooth. Cool as quickly as possible in a shallow ice-water bath to prevent the bright colour from fading. Set aside.
Heat 1 tablespoon of butter with 1 medium clove of minced garlic and 1 tablespoon lime juice in which to sauté the 4 crayfish tails that will be used for garnish, about 2-3 minutes. Set aside and cover.
Bring the stock up to a boil in a saucepan and then reduce to a low simmer, keeping it at this temperature while you cook the rice.
Heat the oil with 1 tablespoon of butter in a large heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onions and the fennel and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. *Be careful not to brown or burn them. Add the remaining clove of garlic and cook until aromatic, 30 seconds.
Turn the heat up to high, and add the rice. Stir until well coated and translucent in spots, about 2 minutes. Add the white wine, and cook until it’s mostly absorbed, stirring all the time, about 3 minutes.
Gradually add the hot stock, one ladleful at a time, stirring continuously. Allow for the risotto to soak up each ladleful before adding more. It should take about 18-20 minutes for the rice to reach the aldente stage.
Turn off the heat and gently stir in the peas and crayfish pieces. Stir in the remaining tablespoon of butter, the preserved lime, fresh lime juice, parmesan cheese, and chopped fennel feathers. Season with black pepper to taste.
Garnish as in the image below, or as you choose. Serve immediately.
